{"id":5392,"date":"2019-11-19T08:30:29","date_gmt":"2019-11-19T15:30:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/?p=5392"},"modified":"2019-11-15T13:18:47","modified_gmt":"2019-11-15T20:18:47","slug":"artifacts-from-american-fashion-the-flannel-shirt-in-the-1990s","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/2019\/11\/19\/artifacts-from-american-fashion-the-flannel-shirt-in-the-1990s\/","title":{"rendered":"Artifacts from American Fashion: The Flannel Shirt."},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>By<a href=\"http:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/author\/havaughan\/\"> Heather Vaughan Lee<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/ShowImage.aspx_-2-720x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5393\" width=\"383\" height=\"543\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/ShowImage.aspx_-2-211x300.jpeg 211w, https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/ShowImage.aspx_-2.jpeg 1950w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 383px) 100vw, 383px\" \/><figcaption> 1950s wool flannel blue plaid shirt by Pendleton Woolen Mills of Oregon.  Shaun Turpin wore this shirt in the United Kingdom between 1988 and 1990 as a part of a grunge outfit. He donated it to the Victoria &amp; Albert Museum in 1994 for their fashion exhibition, <em>Surfers, Soulies, Skinheads &amp; Skaters: Subcultural Style from the Forties to the Nineties<\/em>. (V&amp;A T.134-1994). <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Popular in the Fall and Winter,  wool plaid flannel shirts have long been associated with the rugged outdoors of the Pacific Northwest, and in the 1990s came to represent the Grunge music scene that originated in that area. Developed by Pendleton Wollen Mills (in Oregon) in the 1920s, colorful flannel shirts started out represent blue-collar work such as logging, along with outdoor recreation such as hunting and fishing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignright\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.ebayimg.com\/images\/g\/WJQAAOSw7s5XhaBs\/s-l300.jpg\" alt=\"\"\/><figcaption>The Beach Boys in Pendleton Shirts in the 1960s (via Pendleton).<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>The Beach Boys, (whose original name had been \u201cThe Pendletones\u201d) helped to popularize the Pendelton flannel more widely, especially the Umatilla wool shirt, among California surfers in the 1960s (Pendleton 2019). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The shirt took on new meaning during the 1990s when Grunge music, and vintage, retro, and thrift-store fashions took center stage, thanks in large part to bands like <strong>Nirvana<\/strong>, <strong>Pearl Jam<\/strong>, and <strong>Hole<\/strong>. The style was especially popular with members of Generation X, who were young adults and teenagers at the time. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/CxKWTzr-k6s\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\"><\/iframe>\n\n\n\n<p>With the 1991 release of Nirvana\u2019s \u201cSmells Like Teen Spirit\u201d and Pearl Jam\u2019s \u201cTen\u201d album, Grunge (and the requisite flannel shirts) hit the mainstream. Grunge music, Gen Xers, and the flannel shirt took center stage in popular films such as <em>Singles<\/em> (1992), directed by Cameron Crowe and <em>Reality Bites <\/em>(1994) directed by Ben Stiller. The films depicted Gen-Xers and band members of Pearl Jam, Soundgarden, and Mudhoney wearing flannel in the Pacific Northwest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.pinimg.com\/originals\/4e\/5f\/b5\/4e5fb5f2360ed57395d1f7ca67441da5.jpg\" alt=\"\"\/><figcaption>Bridget Fonda and Matt Dillon in the 1992 Cameron Crowe film, <em>Singles<\/em>. <br>Costume Design by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.imdb.com\/name\/nm0749529\/?ref_=ttfc_fc_cr15\">Jane Ruhm <\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Fashion designers such as Marc Jacobs (b. 1963), Calvin Klein (b. 1942), and Anna Sui (b. 1964) picked up on the trend and incorporated grunge into their collections in the early 1990s. Grunge style one of the prime examples of the workings of the bottom-up fashion trends of the late-twentieth-century whereby street styles were adopted by designers and clothing manufacturers and then copied massively by the mainstream market. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignright is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/media.allure.com\/photos\/57d9f4571868a2917e62af48\/1:1\/w_1043,h_1043,c_limit\/perry-ellis.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"336\" height=\"336\"\/><figcaption>Marc Jacobs grunge collection for Perry Ellis from Spring 1993.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Among the most newsworthy grunge collection was the Spring 1993 Perry Ellis collection designed by Marc Jacobs. The collection earned Jacobs the nickname \u201cguru of grunge.\u201d He even sent a sample of the collection to Kurt Cobain (of Nirvana) and Courtney Love (of Hole). Love has said, &nbsp;<strong>\u201cDo you know what we did with it? . . .&nbsp; We burned it..\u201d <\/strong>(Madsen 2013)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>By the late 1990s, the grunge era of music had ended, though Grunge-inspired styles returned to runways and streetwear several times during the two decades following the early 1990s. Ironically, twenty-five years later, Grunge fashions have returned as a new \u2018retro\u2019 fashion. Marc Jacobs reissued his original 1993 Grunge Collection in November of 2018, complete with a Dr. Martins boots collaboration (Yotka 2018). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignleft is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Artifacts-from-American-Fashion-791x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5351\" width=\"196\" height=\"254\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Artifacts-from-American-Fashion-791x1024.jpg 791w, https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Artifacts-from-American-Fashion-232x300.jpg 232w, https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Artifacts-from-American-Fashion-768x994.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 196px) 100vw, 196px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><em>This post is one in a series that gives readers a sneak-peek into my new book <\/em><a href=\"https:\/\/amzn.to\/2JSCtii\">Artifacts from American Fashion<\/a><em>  (Available November 30), as well as the research behind it. The book offers readers a unique look at daily life in twentieth-century America through the lens of fashion and clothing.<\/em> <em>It covers<\/em>  f<em>orty-five  essential articles of fashion or accessories, chosen to  illuminate  significant areas of twentieth-century American daily life and history,  including Politics, World Events, and War; Transportation and  Technology; Home and  Work Life; Art and Entertainment; Health, Sport,  and Leisure; and  Alternative Cultures, Youth, Ethnic, Queer, and  Counter Culture. Through these artifacts, readers can follow the major  events, social movements, cultural shifts, and technological developments that shaped our daily life in the U.S.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator is-style-wide\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignleft\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Heather-Lee-Headshot-2019-e1566420775263-200x200.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/about-me\/\">Heather Vaughan Lee is the<\/a><\/strong> founding author of Fashion Historia. She is an author and historian, whose work focuses on the study of dress in the late 19th   through the 20th century. Covering a range of topics and perspectives in dress history, she is primarily known for her research on designer    Natacha Rambova, American fashion history, and the history of knitting in America and the UK. Her forthcoming book, <strong><em><a href=\"https:\/\/amzn.to\/2Nkmuvx\">Artifacts from American Fashion<\/a><\/em><\/strong> is available for pre-order on Amazon (November 2019 from ABC-CLIO).&nbsp; <a href=\"http:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/author\/havaughan\/\">More posts by the Author \u00bb<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Sources:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Madsen, Susanne. 2013. \u201cThe story of Marc Jacobs\u2019 controversial 90s grunge<br> collection.\u201d <em>Dazed &amp; Confused<\/em>. August. Accessed August 19, 2019.<br> https:\/\/www.dazeddigital.com\/fashion\/article\/16706\/1\/marc-jacobs-for-perry-ellis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Yotka, Steff. 2018. \u201cMarc Jacob\u2019s Grunge Collection for Perry Ellis Is Back! See Every Look.\u201d <em>Vogue<\/em>. November 7. Accessed January 7, 2018. https:\/\/www.vogue.com\/article\/marc-jacobs-perry-ellis-grunge-collection-reissue-lookbook.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Among the most newsworthy grunge collection was the Spring 1993 Perry Ellis collection designed by Marc Jacobs. The collection earned Jacobs the nickname \u201cguru of grunge.\u201d He even sent a sample of the collection to Kurt Cobain (of Nirvana) and Courtney Love (of Hole). Love has said,  \u201cDo you know what we did with it? . . .  We burned it..\u201d (Madsen 2013)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[399,6,93,94,37,4,1],"tags":[19,428,446,450,432,442,429,445,441,449,425,435,436,448,439,427,437,431,444,438,430,433,447,426,440,443,434,424],"coauthors":[247],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5392"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5392"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5392\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5392"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5392"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5392"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashionhistorian.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/coauthors?post=5392"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}