Marlon Brando on his rebellious ‘Wild Ones’ costume (1953)

Marlon Brando in the Wild Ones (1953) (Click for source)

I had fun making it, but never expected it to have the impact it did. I was as surprised as anyone when T-shirts, jeans and leather jackets suddenly became symbols of rebellion… Sales of leather jackets soared, reminding me of It Happened One Night, when Clark Gable took his shirt off and revealed that he wasn’t wearing an undershirt, which created a disaster for the garment industry.”

–Marlon Brando (with Robert Lindsey) in Brando: Songs My Mother Taught Me, New York: Random House, 1994, p. 175-6.

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Money Money Money: Paid summer internship and CSA membership discounts/offers

The December 15 application deadline for the Jack Handford Summer Internship is quickly approaching (extended to February 1, 2012). This internship provides a $2,000 stipend for a student member of the Costume Society of America to complete an internship with an accredited museum or costume collection. The internship is open to undergraduate students about to commence their senior year and to graduate students.

Not a member? There are currently two special offers open to non-members who are interested in joining:

The Western region is currently offering a discount to students joining or renewing. Currently registered students can join CSA or RENEW their memberships by sending in a CSA Membership application form with proof of their current registration at an educational institution (copy of a Registration card I.D.) along with a check made out to CSA for $25 (Instead of the regular $45) For more details, click here.

In addition, and for a limited time, join now and receive a pre-selected, complimentary issue of CSA National Symposia Abstracts (valued at $16.00)! Offer ends 12/31/2011. Click here for details!

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How the Million Dollar Mermaid costume almost killed Esther Williams

Esther Williams in “Million Dollar Mermaid” (1952) Click for source

“Designers Helen Rose and Walter Plunkett fitted me in an extraordinary swim costume—much like a diver’s body suit, only covered, including the soles of the feet, with gold sequins, fifty thousand of them—like chain mail. Atop a gold turban, which was wrapped around my head, they perched a gold crown. And it was the crown that held the dagger. . .”

“I took my position on the disk and the hydraulic lift started rising. Up…up…up I went, the pool, the crew dropping away. The lift finally jolted to a stop. I was perched on the height of a six-story rooftop. Acrophobia! Dizziness! My equilibrium was gone because my inner ear had never fully recovered from the seven broken eardrums I’d suffered through years of living underwater. I suddenly couldn’t tell if I was leaning or standing straight, and my mind—as well as my body—must’ve frozen up there. ‘We’re waiting, Esther!’ Busby barked. ‘Jump!’

I forced a smile for the camera and swan-dived from that tiny platform. Hurtling down, I muttered a silent, ‘Oh, shit.’ I suddenly realized what was going to happen next. The gold crown on my head. Instead of being made with something pliable like cardboard, it was lightweight aluminum, a lot stronger and less flexible than my neck.

I hit the water with tremendous force. The impact snapped my head back. I heard something pop in my neck. I knew instantly that I was in big trouble.

Totally unaware, Mervyn called out, “Great. . . Time for lunch.’ (219) Magic words. You only had to say it once. Everyone—Mervyn , Busby, the crew—trooped across the soundstage and within seconds vanished. Only Flossie Hackett, my wardrobe lady, remained, and only because it was her job to get my costume off for later shooting.

I could kick my legs, so I desperately treaded water; but my arms and shoulders were virtually paralyzed. The back of my neck was in screaming pain. In my mind’s eye I saw the headlines: ‘Esther Williams Drowns in MGM Studio Pool.’ I cried out, ‘Flossie, you’ve got to get some help for me.’

She thought I was joking. ‘C’mon, Esther, you’re such a kidder. I want to go to lunch. I’m hungry.’

Flossie, I’m really in trouble,’ I gasped. “Find two guys who can lift me out of the pool.’

Finally she believed I was serious. She ran to the big soundstange door and shouted, ‘I think Esther Williams is dead. She can’t get out of the pool.’

Some men came running in, quickly stripped off their shoes and shirts, and jumped in to pull me out. I was crying by that time, because the pain was so intense. They carried me to my dressing room. While we were waiting for the ambulance, Flossie carefully removed my gold fishnet bodysuit, rolling it down my body like pantyhose, and those fifty thousand tiny metal sequins were like little knives, nicking and cutting me. (Flossie was supposed to keep my costumes in good repair, so I’m sure the absurdity of peeling off the suit, instead of swiftly cutting it off, never crossed her mind.)

At the hospital, I blacked out from the pain. The X-rays showed that I had broken three vertebrae in the back of my neck. I’d come as close to snapping my spinal cord and becoming a paraplegic as you could without actually succeeding.”

-Esther Williams (with Digby Diehl). The Million Dollar Mermaid: An Autobiography, New York: Simon & Schuster, 1999 (219-220).

 

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On Lana Turner’s white costumes in The Postman Always Rings Twice (1946)

(Click for image source)

“[Lana Turner] already had platinum hair. She’d been that color. So we left it for the film [The Postman Always Rings Twice, 1946]. The white clothing was something that Carey and I thought of. At that time there was a great problem of getting a story with that much sex past the censors. We figured that dressing Lana in white somehow made everything she did seem less sensuous. It was also attractive as hell. And it somehow took a little of the stigma off of everything that she did.

–Director Tay Garnett, quoted in Joe Morella and Edward Z. Epstein, Lana: The Public and Private Lives of Miss Turner, New York: The Citadel Press, 1971. p. 80

 

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New Book on the wardrobe of Cosimo I de Medici

Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Cosimo I de Medici’s Style (English and Italian Edition)

By Roberta Orsi-Landini (Author)

Publisher: Edizioni Polistampa; Bilingual edition (October, 2011)

Somehow, this one slipped through the cracks for October. Some of you will remember that I wrote a little piece on the Medici’s when the Isabelle de Borchgrave exhibit was at the Legion of Honor. Here I took a brief look at Agnolo Bronzino of Eleanor of Toledo (1522–1562), the wife of Cosimo I de’ Medici. The Medici family’s had a Papal monopoly on Alum and Eleanor of Toledo employed her own weavers.

Now there is a new book out on Cosimo I de Medici’s wardrobe, written by Roberta Orsi Landini, a textile and costume scholar, who has worked for over 20 years on the textile and costume collections at the Pitti Palace in Florence. Her work here is likely to be of great importance to the study of fashion and textile history.

Other works by Roberta Orsi Landini:

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Thanksgiving from the Camp Fire Girls (San Francisco, 1949)

San Francisco, Nov. 19, 1949. "Thanksgiving means much more to Camp Fire Girls than a day for stuffing themselves with turkey and staying away from school. It's an opportunity to serve others, and that includes helping at home with dinner preparations. This week a group of girls had a preliminary workout in table setting and flower arrangement when they gave a dinner for their dads at the clubhouse on Arguello-blvd. In the group were, left to right: Virginia Perryman, Carol Thompson, Katherine Hoass, Helena Cannon and Ann Graber." (Via SFPL.org)

 

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