How the Million Dollar Mermaid costume almost killed Esther Williams

Esther Williams in “Million Dollar Mermaid” (1952) Click for source

“Designers Helen Rose and Walter Plunkett fitted me in an extraordinary swim costume—much like a diver’s body suit, only covered, including the soles of the feet, with gold sequins, fifty thousand of them—like chain mail. Atop a gold turban, which was wrapped around my head, they perched a gold crown. And it was the crown that held the dagger. . .”

“I took my position on the disk and the hydraulic lift started rising. Up…up…up I went, the pool, the crew dropping away. The lift finally jolted to a stop. I was perched on the height of a six-story rooftop. Acrophobia! Dizziness! My equilibrium was gone because my inner ear had never fully recovered from the seven broken eardrums I’d suffered through years of living underwater. I suddenly couldn’t tell if I was leaning or standing straight, and my mind—as well as my body—must’ve frozen up there. ‘We’re waiting, Esther!’ Busby barked. ‘Jump!’

I forced a smile for the camera and swan-dived from that tiny platform. Hurtling down, I muttered a silent, ‘Oh, shit.’ I suddenly realized what was going to happen next. The gold crown on my head. Instead of being made with something pliable like cardboard, it was lightweight aluminum, a lot stronger and less flexible than my neck.

I hit the water with tremendous force. The impact snapped my head back. I heard something pop in my neck. I knew instantly that I was in big trouble.

Totally unaware, Mervyn called out, “Great. . . Time for lunch.’ (219) Magic words. You only had to say it once. Everyone—Mervyn , Busby, the crew—trooped across the soundstage and within seconds vanished. Only Flossie Hackett, my wardrobe lady, remained, and only because it was her job to get my costume off for later shooting.

I could kick my legs, so I desperately treaded water; but my arms and shoulders were virtually paralyzed. The back of my neck was in screaming pain. In my mind’s eye I saw the headlines: ‘Esther Williams Drowns in MGM Studio Pool.’ I cried out, ‘Flossie, you’ve got to get some help for me.’

She thought I was joking. ‘C’mon, Esther, you’re such a kidder. I want to go to lunch. I’m hungry.’

Flossie, I’m really in trouble,’ I gasped. “Find two guys who can lift me out of the pool.’

Finally she believed I was serious. She ran to the big soundstange door and shouted, ‘I think Esther Williams is dead. She can’t get out of the pool.’

Some men came running in, quickly stripped off their shoes and shirts, and jumped in to pull me out. I was crying by that time, because the pain was so intense. They carried me to my dressing room. While we were waiting for the ambulance, Flossie carefully removed my gold fishnet bodysuit, rolling it down my body like pantyhose, and those fifty thousand tiny metal sequins were like little knives, nicking and cutting me. (Flossie was supposed to keep my costumes in good repair, so I’m sure the absurdity of peeling off the suit, instead of swiftly cutting it off, never crossed her mind.)

At the hospital, I blacked out from the pain. The X-rays showed that I had broken three vertebrae in the back of my neck. I’d come as close to snapping my spinal cord and becoming a paraplegic as you could without actually succeeding.”

-Esther Williams (with Digby Diehl). The Million Dollar Mermaid: An Autobiography, New York: Simon & Schuster, 1999 (219-220).

 

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On Lana Turner’s white costumes in The Postman Always Rings Twice (1946)

(Click for image source)

“[Lana Turner] already had platinum hair. She’d been that color. So we left it for the film [The Postman Always Rings Twice, 1946]. The white clothing was something that Carey and I thought of. At that time there was a great problem of getting a story with that much sex past the censors. We figured that dressing Lana in white somehow made everything she did seem less sensuous. It was also attractive as hell. And it somehow took a little of the stigma off of everything that she did.

–Director Tay Garnett, quoted in Joe Morella and Edward Z. Epstein, Lana: The Public and Private Lives of Miss Turner, New York: The Citadel Press, 1971. p. 80

 

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New Book on the wardrobe of Cosimo I de Medici

Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Cosimo I de Medici’s Style (English and Italian Edition)

By Roberta Orsi-Landini (Author)

Publisher: Edizioni Polistampa; Bilingual edition (October, 2011)

Somehow, this one slipped through the cracks for October. Some of you will remember that I wrote a little piece on the Medici’s when the Isabelle de Borchgrave exhibit was at the Legion of Honor. Here I took a brief look at Agnolo Bronzino of Eleanor of Toledo (1522–1562), the wife of Cosimo I de’ Medici. The Medici family’s had a Papal monopoly on Alum and Eleanor of Toledo employed her own weavers.

Now there is a new book out on Cosimo I de Medici’s wardrobe, written by Roberta Orsi Landini, a textile and costume scholar, who has worked for over 20 years on the textile and costume collections at the Pitti Palace in Florence. Her work here is likely to be of great importance to the study of fashion and textile history.

Other works by Roberta Orsi Landini:

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Thanksgiving from the Camp Fire Girls (San Francisco, 1949)

San Francisco, Nov. 19, 1949. "Thanksgiving means much more to Camp Fire Girls than a day for stuffing themselves with turkey and staying away from school. It's an opportunity to serve others, and that includes helping at home with dinner preparations. This week a group of girls had a preliminary workout in table setting and flower arrangement when they gave a dinner for their dads at the clubhouse on Arguello-blvd. In the group were, left to right: Virginia Perryman, Carol Thompson, Katherine Hoass, Helena Cannon and Ann Graber." (Via SFPL.org)

 

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New Fashion History Books: Sewing Machines in Japan and Stays in London

Fabricating Consumers: The Sewing Machine in Modern Japan

by Andrew Gordon

University of California Press (Nov. 1, 2011)

Written by Andrew Gordon, an expert in Japanese social history and a prestigious professor at Harvard University, this new book – Fabricating Consumers: The Sewing Machine in Modern Japan– shows how the ‘humble’ sewing machine dramatically changed life and society in Japan. It discusses the Singer sewing machine specifically, and shows how the machine in general “not only transformed manners of dress but also helped change patterns of daily life, class structure, and the role of women.”

Stays and Body Image in London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680-1810

by Lynne Sorge-English

Pickering & Chatto Ltd (June 30, 2011)

At the recommendation of Mark Hutter, I recently acquired this new(ish) book, Stays and Body Image in London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680-1810 by Lynne Sorge-English. For those academics studying this time period, it is a good resource with unique analysis. The author uses surviving examples of stays in various collections, to explore how this garment and its manufacture changed over time.  Interestingly, it examines how women’s health was affected due to prolonged use. The book combines both material analysis with literary analysis (an eighteenth-century staymakers diary) along with cultural and social history. Important to note, however – this is not a photograph-heavy book, but is a true research resource.

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Alexander Mcqueen, ‘Fabulous’ FIDM, and the book

Those of you who follow me on Twitter will know that I went to the CSA hosted program on the FIDM Museum’s current exhibition, FABULOUS: Ten Years of FIDM Museum Acquisitions 2000-2010. During the lecture, our host and curator, Kevin Jones gave us some good behind-the-scenes dirt on the objects included in the exhibition and accompanying exhibition catalog (a veritable textbook on the last 200 years of fashion history, and well-worth the money).

Alexander McQueen Peacock dress, March 2008 Runway (Click for source)

Most interesting to me from his lecture, was the Alexander McQueen dress. The amazing craftsmanship of this dress was discussed. When the museum commissioned the dress it was to take 7 months (!) for the couture house to create it. In order to have the dress photographed for the exhibition catalog, the runway version was loaned to the museum for one day only. Thus, the dress included in the catalog is the same dress that appeared both on the 2008-09 runway and on Sarah Jessica Parker’s back in the Vogue shoot at the Met.

If you haven’t seen the exhibition yet, do so before it closes on December 17.

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Joan Crawford on finding her ‘look’ (1932)

Publicity Still of Joan Crawford for Grand Hotel, 1932 (click for source)

“I played the prostitute [in Grand Hotel, 1932] and I felt that a more sensuous look was needed. Full, natural lip line and generous eyebrows—no bra, no girdle. Definite features were called for, and I found that I liked that look so much that I kept it.”

–Joan Crawford, My Way Of Life. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1971. 159.

 

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