October Books on Fashion

Halloween is next week… and it’s just a short leap to Thanksgiving and then holiday shopping will be upon us. Before we get to that – and all the requisite shopping for others that is required – here are a few books you might want to think about looking into for yourself. There are more than a few that I’m interested in:

The Rise of Fashion and Lessons Learned at Bergdorf Goodman (Oct 18, Fairchild)

By Ira Neimark

I’m particularly interested in this book, not only for his personal anecdotes, but because the study covers “the late sixties through the early nineties”. For those unfamiliar, Ira Neimark was Chairman and CEO of Bergdorf Goodman for 17 years, and previously worked at Neiman Marcus Group, B. Altman, and Bonwit Teller. He’s currently director of Hermes of Paris and director emeritus of The Fashion Institute of Technology Foundation. His insights into the history and business of luxury fashion seem like they might be useful to understanding the industry. For more, see this review in the Wall Street Journal.

High Heels: Fashion, Femininity & Seduction (Goliga, Oct. 31, 2011)

By Valerie Steele, Tim Blanks, Philip Delamore, James Crump, and Ivan Vartanian (Editor)

While provocative, the cover is not what drew me to this book: Valerie Steele is. Though this is an edited book of essays on high heels, Steele’s name has such cache in the world of dress studies, that simply being associated with the book makes me want to read it more. That said, the book also includes well-known photographers such as Guy Bourdin, Juergen Teller, and David Lachapelle. The essay topics are intriguing, and are likely to hold some amount of controversy. Along with Steele (on the industry forces behind high-heel design) are contributions from Stella Bruzzi on High heels on film; insights from designer Manolo Blahnik, and a discussion of the use of high heels in fashion photography.

Bals: Legendary Costume Balls of the Twentieth Century (Assouline, October 2011)

By Nicholas Foulkes

Likely to be photo-heavy, the concept still intrigues me. “From the twilight of the Romanov dynasty through les années folles of Art Deco Paris to the jet-set seventies, Bals explores the nine most exceptional private costume parties of the twentieth century.”

The book includes both first-person accounts from and insider stories about Paul Poiret, Truman Capote, Cecil Beaton and Marisa Berenson, among others. Want more? Check out the 20 minute (French subtitled) video below.

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Wednesday Word: Defining Dress

1920s Sporting Attire (via UVM)

“The terms ‘dress’ and – even more so – ‘fashion’ have many different meanings, and the contemporary study of dress testifies to this diversity and to the importance of what we wear at every level of society. The manufacture and sale of clothing is a huge industry, both in Britain (where it is the fifth largest) and worldwide; it is therefore of major economic importance. At the same time dress performs a wide variety of important social functions.”

— Elizabeth Wilson and Amy de la Haye, Defining Dress as object, Meaning and identity.

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Mrs. D.W. Griffith on early film costume practices

Linda Arvidson (Mrs. D. W. Griffith) circa 1910-1915

“Any one with ‘clothes’ had a wonderful open sesame. A young chap whom we dubbed ‘the shoe clerk’ – who never played a thing but ‘atmosphere’ –got many a pay-check on the strength of his neat, tan, covert cloth spring overcoat—the only spring overcoat that ever honored the studio (An actor could get along in the spring with his winter suit and no overcoat!)

Clothes soon became a desperate matter, so Biograph consented to spend fifty dollars for wearing apparel for the women. Harry Salter and I were entrusted with the funds and told to hunt bargains. We needed negligees, dinner dresses, ball gowns, and semi-tailored effects. The clothes were to be bought in sizes to fit, as well as could be, the three principal women. (71)

In that day, on Sixth Avenue in the Twenties, were numbers of shops dealing in second-hand clothing, and Mr. Salter and I wandered among them and finally at a little place called ‘Simone,’ we closed a deal. We got a good batch of stuff for the fifty – at least a dozen pieces—bizarre effects for the sophisticated lady, dignified accoutrements for the conventional matron, and simple softness for young innocence.

How those garments worked! I have forgotten many, but one—a brown silk and velvet affair—I never can forget. It was the first to be grabbed off the hoot—it was forever doing duty. For it was unfailing in its effect. Arrayed in the brown silk and velvet, there could be no doubt as to one’s moral status—the maiden lady it mad obviously pure; the wife faithful; the mother, self-sacrificing.

Deciding, impromptu, to elaborate on a social affair, Mr. Griffith would call out: ‘I can use you in this scene, Miss Bierman, if you can find a dress to fit you.’ The tall, lean actresses, and the short ones found that difficult, and thus, unfortunately, often lost a day’s work. Spotting a new piece of millinery in the studio, our director would thus approach the wearer: ‘I have no part for you, Miss Hart, but I can use your hat. I’ll give you five dollars if you will let Miss Pickford wear your hat for this picture.’ Two days of work would pay for your hat, so you were glad to sit around while the leading lady sported your new head-piece. You received more on a loan of your clothes, sometimes, than you did on a loan of yourself. Clothes got five dollars always, but laughter and merry-making upstage went for three.” (72)

–Linda Arvidson (Mrs. D.W. Griffith). When the Movies Were Young, New York: E.P. Dutton & Company, 1925. pgs 71-72

Below is an early film (by D.W. Griffith) The Adventures of Dollie, starring Linda Arvidson and Harry Salter.

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The Wednesday Word: Yuniya Kawamura defines fashion

Actress Joan Crawford in the 1920s

“What exactly is fashion? It is difficult to give an exct definition of fashion because the word has had different connotations throughout history; the meaning and significance of the word have changed to suit the social customs and clothing habits of people in different social structures. When fashion is treated as an item of clothing that has added value in a material sense, it confuses the notion of fashion. Fashion does provide extra added values to clothing, but the additional elements exist only in people’s imaginations and beliefs. Fashion is not visual clothing but is the invisible elements included in clothing”

–Yuniya Kawamura in Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies (pg 4)

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Wednesday Word: Fred Davis on the definition of Fashion

Setting a New Fashion in Pets. Los Angeles, California: Marian Nixon set a new fashion at the Universal lot by matching her new fur coat with her pet. She created something of a sensation when she was seen leading a pet leopard on a leash down a Hollywood boulevard. (c1925, via Corbis)

Clearly, any definition of fashion seeking to grasp what distinguishes it from style, custom, conventional or acceptable dress, or prevalent modes must place its emphasis on the element of change we often associate with the term. . . . Fashion, if it is to be distinguished from style and numerous other of its neighbor terms, must be made to refer to some alteration in the code of visual conventions by which we read meanings of whatever sort and variety into the clothes we and our contemporaries wear….”

— Fred Davis, “Do Clothes Speak? What Makes Them Fashion” in Barnard, Malcom (ed) Fashion Theory: A Reader. Routledge (2007)

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Two New Books on Coco Chanel

Chanel by Cassandre, 1942 (as seen in Amy De La Haye's new book)

The story of Coco Chanel has been told in many, many books over many many years — and all biographers have trouble figuring out what was true and what she made up. It has been said that she changed her past to suit her mood. Here, two authors from different backgrounds attempt to provide new perspectives:

Coco Chanel

by Linda Simon (October 1, Critical Lives – Reaktion Books)

This slim, lightly illustrated (black and white only) is a new contribution to Reaktion books “Critical Lives” series. According to the publisher, in this version of Chanel’s life “Linda Simon here teases apart the myth that Chanel and her adoring public collaborated to create, and explores its contradictions.” Kirkus, a publishing industry magazine, interviewed her about the book, and in an amazingly short review The Independent said:

“Too much of this book is devoted to Chanel’s love life, and not enough attention is given to her astonishing talent, although Simon’s assessment of the designer’s legacy – her fashion helped redefine ‘femininity as a sort of adolescent insouciance’ – is nicely put.”

Simon, who is an English professor, has previously written biographies of Alas B. Tolklas and William James – but has little fashion history/studies background. I’ll be very interested to see what other fashion scholars have to say about this retelling.

Chanel: Couture and Industry

By Amy de la Haye (October, Thames & Hudson/Victoria & Albert Museum

Alternatively, Amy de la Haye – who has written a number of fashion history text and reference books – has also just come out with a new book: Chanel: Couture and Industry. For those unfamiliar, de la Haye is a curator and dress historian. She has a Senior Research Fellowship at the London College of Fashion (University of the Arts) and from 1991-1998 she was Curator of 20th Century Dress at the V&A.

Of the two books, this is the one to get. Heavily illustrated, with sidebars and call-outs, it is still slim and concise – explaining key stages of Chanel’s career (and continuing briefly into the Lagerfeld years) and the issues she dealt with (in a textbook style-layout ideal for students). Of particular note are the introductory chapter “Chanel: Subject and Media” and the call-out section “1939-53: War and the Aftermath.”

Chanel: Couture and Industry includes a helpful chronology, as well as highlights of Chanel ensembles included in the Victorian & Albert Museum.  Copious full-color photographs, illustrations, art depicting the clothing she designed provide excellent evidence of her design prowess. It is far from dry reading, and includes fascinating tid-bits, discussions of her fashion designs, in addition to her style and her life.

Here’s a mix of vintage and more contemporary Chanel fashions (and Chanel herself) to wet your appetite:

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Myrna Loy on the Big Screen (SF and LA!)

This coming Friday (i.e. tomorrow), the Mechanics Institute will begin its Cinema Lit series of Myrna Loy film screenings (in celebration of a new book on the actress by Emily Leider, Myrna Loy: The Only Good Girl in Hollywood. Leider, who is best known (to me anyway) for her biography of Rudolph Valentino, Dark Lover: The Life and Death of Rudolph Valentino, will introduce the first two films in the series.

For those who are unfamiliar, Myrna Loy was discovered by Natacha Rambova and gave her a first film role in the late 1920s (changing her name, and giving her an ‘exotic’ look). However, she became famous for her roles opposite William Powell in The Thin Man series beginning in 1934 (see my post on the costume designer Dolly Tree for more on the costumes in this film).

Friday, October 7, 6pm. The Animal Kingdom (1932): Loy plays a beautiful and manipulative woman married to a reformed bohemian in this thoughtfully subversive pre-code comedy. Details here.

Myrna Loy, 'queen of the movies' (via Love Those Classic Movies)

Friday, October 14, 6pm. Penthouse (1933): A woman helps a lawyer vindicate an innocent man accused of murder in this blend of comedy and drama. Details here.

Friday, October 21, 6pm. Manhattan Melodrama (1934): with William Powell and Clark Gable, Two orphaned friends take wildly divergent paths, one into the district attorney’s office, the other into a life of crime — but they both love the same woman. Details here.

Friday, October 28, 6pm. Love Crazy (1941): William Powell teams with Myrna Loy in this comedy about a man who will do anything – even fake insanity – to prevent his wife from divorcing him. Details Here.

Can’t make any of those dates for screenings? There will be a few more in the Los Angeles and San Francisco area through the end of 2011 (Details forthcoming):

November 20, 2011, 1:00 PM – American Cinematheque (Los Angeles)

December 14, 2011 – Hollywood Heritage Museum in the Lasky-DeMille Barn, Hollywood, CAFebruary 21, 2012 – San Francisco Historical Society

Added bonus! Here’s a trailer of Manhattan Melodrama to wet your appetite:

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The Wednesday Word: Roland Barthes on the written garment

Author Roland Barthes

“I open a fashion magazine; I see that two different garments are being dealt with here. The first is the one presented to me as photographed or drawn–it is image-clothing. The second is the same garment, but described, transformed into language; this dress, photographed on the right, becomes on the left: A leather belt, with a rose stuck in it, worn above the waist, non a soft shettland dress; this is a written garment. In principle these two garments refer to the same reality (this dress worn on this day by this woman), and yet they do not have the same structure, because they are not made of the same substances and because, consequently, these substances do not have the same relations with each other: in one of the substances are forms, lines, surfaces, colors, and the relation is spatial; in the other, the substance is words, and the relation is, if not logical, at least syntactic; the first structure is plastic, the second verbal. Is this to say that each of these structures is indistinguishable from the general system from which it derives–image-clothing from photography, written clothing from language? Not at all.”

–Roland Barthes, The Fashion System

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Accessories in Fashion Studies

Lifetime Television, in hopes of capitalizing on the success of Project Runway, is to begin a new series in November “Project Accessory” with Molly Sims as host. This got me thinking about the role that accessories have really played in the history and study of fashion. It’s not a foreign concept to me. This time last year, I asked a dear friend to write a book review of Accessories to Modernity: Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France.

While that book was through-written, a new publication from University of Minnesota Press plays directly into the zeitgeist and the newest recognition of the accessory in fashion. Released in August, Accesorizing the Body (edited by Cristina Giorcelli and Paula Rabinowitz ) is the first in a four-part series Habits of Being.  The seires consists of extracts of the “best essays from the ongoing editions of Abito e Identita: ricerche de sortia letteraria e cultrurale, edited by Cristina Giocelli and published since 1995” now being published in English for the first time.

The first volume in the series, is wide ranging, and contributes research and theoretical discussions on various types of accessories-hats, shoes, vests, anklets, etc – but it is also deeply analytical, and for those who don’t speak Italian, will become a valuable resource for the analysis of accessories in a larger context. The essayists come from a variety of scholarly backgrounds – art history, semiotics literary studies, history fashion and even psychoanalysis. It is something I want to take my time in reading.

Zora Neale Hurston, photo by Carl Van Vechten (1938)

The essay “Coco, Zelda, Sara, Daisy, and Nicole: Accessories for new ways of being a woman” by Martha Banta, professor emeritus of English at the University of California, Los Angeles, is of particular interest and suggests connections between major figures in 1920s culture. Another essay on the poet Laura (Riding) Jackson, titled , “Precious Objects: Laura Riding, her tiara, and the petrarchan muse” is written by Becky Peterson – herself a poet and an alumni of the MFA program in English at Mills College (and now a graduate of the University of Minnesota). She looks at the role jewelry (and other precious objects) played in Riding’s poems. The essay, “Black Hattitude” looks at African American hat-wearing and attitude (specifically Zola Neale Hurston) and is written by Jeffrey C. Stewart, professor and chair of Black Studies at the University of California, Santa Barbara.

Cover of Report for a Corpse by Henry kane (New York: Dell Publishing Company Inc., 1949. Cover by Gerald Gregg.)

Still more essays intrigue: one looks at Spanish women’s clothing after the civil war, while another explores the image of the yellow Jewish star, and still another looks at the use of women’s shoes and anklets in images and film. There are more–on metaphysical sandals, cinematic jewels and futurist vests.

These are all relatively short essays, but extremely well written and thought provoking.  The book covers a lot of ground and packs some pretty heavy hitting theory along with it, referencing Jacques Derrida, Karl Marx, Martin Heidegger, but also Ann Hollander, Joanne Entwistle, Colin McDowell, and James Laver.

It’s marvelous to read in such a digestible format, and I’m looking forward to the next volumes in the series.

 

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The Wednesday Word: Ulrich Lehmann on why Fashion is worthy of study

Erwin Blumenfeld, Audrey Hepburn (1952), New York Audrey Hepburn is wearing a hat designed by Blumenfeld and made by Mister Fred, one of New York's most talented milliners. Blumenfeld here uses a system of mirrors showing the front and back of the hat and allowing infinite repetition of the motif.

“To write about fashion, to discuss its impact and importance, always means to transform the fleeting and transitory into the statue-like and permanent, if only through black letters on a white sheet of paper. Fashion as a topic remains embroiled and disputed because of its alleged lack of substance–in artistic as well as metaphysical terms. The profound and eternal are considered worthy of intellectual analysis; what is transient and fugitie will nearly always be equated consciously or unconsciously with the facile and futile. Yet herein lies fashion’s most absorbing fascination: it challenges us to transpose transitoriness, also the hallmark of modernity, into a medium of high regard, while maintaining its distinct characteristics; to theorize and analyze, yet not to petrify.”

–Ulrich Lehman in Tigerspring: Fashion in Modernity (MIT Press, 2000)

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